Things to know before visiting Comuna 13: the transformed neighbourhood

When in Medellín, exploring the vibrant Comuna 13 is something that should be on everyone’s itinerary.  

Comuna 13 is a true example of defying all odds - that good always wins. 

We spent a morning in the neighbourhood, and left feeling grateful to have explored an area which would have been impossible to step foot in 15 years ago. 

Here is everything to know before visiting Comuna 13. 

The history of Comuna 13

Once the gloomy heart of Colombia’s armed conflict, Comuna 13 was considered to be one of the most dangerous neighbourhoods in Medellín.

For years, the hillside barrio was run by violent drug cartels and guerrillas, who used Comuna 13 as a transit route to export cocaine in and out of the city. 

From 2002-2008, the government decided to intervene with a series of bloodshed affairs against the guerrillas. They wanted the guerrillas out.

Sadly, residents were caught in the conflict, resulting in many deaths, injuries and kidnappings.

A little over a decade later, the government decided to invest in the barrio. They built a cable car network and installed a series of escalators that ride up and down the mountain - giving the isolated locals an accessible route to the city. 

Today, Comuna 13 residents have taken back their neighbourhood by turning the commune into one of the most popular tourist attractions in Medellín.

The area is covered in colourful houses, murals and graffiti - each telling a story of its past. The neighbourhood also thrives on hip-hop and dance performances, filling the streets with an upbeat and positive energy.   

There is so much hope amongst locals, who are living proof that change is possible. 

Exploring Comuna 13 without a guide 

It is possible to wander into Comuna 13 without a guide. The streets are bursting with life, thanks to its graffiti murals, street hip-hop performances, restaurants and cafes. 

There are plenty of tourists around, which makes the neighbourhood feel safe, however we advise being a sheep and following the crowd. Don’t wander off the main road. 

If you decide to visit in your own time, then make sure to visit in the daylight hours. 

We recommend checking out the market, and heading up to the top of the mountain, via the escalators, for an epic view of Comuna 13 and the city. 

However, if you truly want to a more meaningful experience, then we highly recommend booking on to a free walking tour. 

Exploring Comuna 13 with a free guided walking tour

There is no better way of truly understanding the city’s past than with a free guided walking tour. 

This is what we chose to do, and we honestly had the most gratifying and memorable experience. 

There are a few companies that run free walking tours to Comuna 13, but we highly recommend booking with Zippy Tour. 

Zippy tour is a company run by local residents living in Comuna 13. They offer tours in English and Spanish, and the tour typically lasts 3 hours. 

Our local guide, Stiven was extremely informative and his passion for the neighbourhood was evident in his delivery. 

He took us through the tragic history of the barrio, showed us through neighbourhoods, graffiti murals, and the best views from Comuna 13. We were even treated to a hip-hop performance by a group of young talented individuals. 

Most importantly, Stiven spoke about his own experience living in Comuna 13. He told us that thanks to tourism, the government decided to implement security cameras on every street. Although locals still live in fear, they feel much safer now, especially with the cameras in place. 

He also told us that the different mountains along Medellín have been inspired by Comuna 13. More neighbourhoods are trying to craft their own path in hope that they will create positive change and follow in Comuna 13s footsteps. 

It was truly an unforgettable experience, and we felt so lucky to be there.

If you do decide to book onto a free walking tour, remember to always tip your guide. You are expected to tip a minimum of COP $30.000 per person. 

 

How to get to Comuna 13

The easiest way to reach Comuna 13 is by taking the Metro Line B to San Javier.

At San Javier Metro station, there are two exits - an exit that takes you out to the main streets, and an exit that takes you to the cable cars. To reach Comuna 13, you will need to follow the standard exit sign (not the cable car exit sign!). 

If you have booked onto a free walking tour, you will most likely meet your guide outside the station. 

If you are visiting Comuna 13 without a guide, you can either walk to the escalators or jump on a bus. Look out for the buses that advertise ‘escalaras electrica’ at the front. These will take you to the bottom of the first escalator in Comuna 13. 

tags:Colombia,South America,Travel